'Roads' in East Africa describes a wide range of wheeled-vehicle thoroughfares from the very basic track to black-topped dual carriageways - there are no motorways (or freeways) as we know them. Roads between major towns are generally black-top single carriageways, which you'll only use on the long-haul routes between game parks. All routes within the parks are tracks with the more popular routes graded at irregular intervals, with drainage channels and concreted watercourse crossings (dry for much of the year). This ensures tourists at least get to their accommodation in the rainy seasons.

Roads and major tracks are poorly maintained and in many places vehicles drive on the verges for many miles to avoid the pot-holes. At irregular intervals (prior to elections or through foreign aid) money is spent on the roads, but these have a tendency to fall in to disrepair quite quickly.

The most common safari vehicle by far is the two-wheel-drive mini-bus, used by most package tour operators and some of the smaller local agents. They have opening roofs to allow tourists to get a better view and photographs whilst providing a sun-cover. The vehicles have to be in reasonable condition, although wouldn't pass many Western PSV regulations. In recent months the Kenyan authorities have regulated that every tourist must have their own window seat, although this is not strictly adhered to.

For smaller or private parties there are a variety of Land Rover or Land Cruiser 4-wheel drive vehicles with customised bodies. These are the mainstay transport for the smaller private game reserves which have to be able to get themselves out-of-trouble. They are usually fitted out as open sided vehicles with permanent covers or have fold-back hatches allowing people to sit on the roof for better viewing (where allowed).

The safari vehicles are generally in far better condition than most, whether they be saloon cars or 40 ton long-haul trucks with 30 ton trailers often seen 'crabbing' along the road! The general standard of driving leaves a lot to be desired. Safari drivers however have to pass certain driving standards and wildlife tests before they can be employed.

Note, due to the steepness only four-wheeled-drive vehicles are allowed into Ngorongoro Crater, although the ascent road is now block-paved.

There are no scheduled bus services in East Africa, except for the long distance coaches between major towns. Taxis are by far the best choice for travelling independently about town. Most are privately owned and barely in roadworthy condition. One of our operators stopped using one driver when he had to borrow a friends car to get us to the airport on time!

However, they are preferable to the local matatus - the local unscheduled bus service. Until recently these had a poor reputation, always overloaded and not roadworthy. The Kenyan authorities have clamped down and regulated these in recent years, but that won't improve some of the more basic practices. During one of our earliest visits we decided to go to the local market by matatu. All started well as we managed to get seats. A few miles further on a young woman who had been feeding her baby got on. As she struggled with her bags she handed the baby to our girls and disappeared down the bus. They were left literally holding-the-baby and one of our elderly male travellers was left ogling the woman's bare breast for the rest of the journey. We found alternative transport for the return journey!